The Row Agnes 12: Nubuck vs Grained Leather Review
Two luxurious leathers, two different versions of the Agnes
One of the hardest things about choosing a bag from The Row is that the leather can be just as tempting as the silhouette itself.
The Agnes makes that especially obvious. Grained calfskin brings softness, sheen, and everyday ease, while nubuck feels velvety, richer, and more structured.
This guide compares grained and nubuck calfskin across texture, structure, durability, styling, and everyday use — including which finish makes the most sense for your wardrobe.
For a closer look at the silhouette itself, see our Agnes 12 Review.
The Row Agnes 12 in Grained vs Nubuck Calfskin — Front View Comparison
At a Glance
Both finishes are designed to be worn and enjoyed frequently, but they differ in visual texture and how the leather develops character over time.
| Grained Calfskin | Nubuck Calfskin | |
|---|---|---|
| Best For | A softer, slouchier look | More structure and polish |
| Finish | Slightly shiny and grained | Matte and grained |
| Feel | Soft, squishy, and pliant | Soft, velvety, and smooth |
| Look | More light-catching and relaxed | More muted and polished |
| Shape | Slouchier from the outset, with a more collapsed feel | Holds its shape better while still preserving the folds |
| Presence | Expressive and tactile | Polished and refined |
| Wear | More forgiving in day-to-day use | Durable but more delicate in daily wear |
| Care | Lower-maintenance, can show scratching | Requires more caution and upkeep |
| Price | $4,100 | $4,300 |
Where to Buy the Row Agnes Bag
The Agnes is becoming one of the Row’s most recognizable silhouettes and has appeared in multiple finishes across recent seasons. It is typically available through the brand’s boutiques, official website, and select luxury retailers.
Current sourcing options:
The Row — Official online store
Mytheresa— Authorized luxury retailer
Fashionphile— Resale marketplace
The Row Agnes 12 in grained calfskin in Hippo Grey, highlighting the leather’s slight shine, soft grain, and the bag’s naturally slouchy, squished character.
Texture and Structure
On the Agnes 12, the leather changes both the texture and the amount of structure the bag holds.
Grained calfskin makes the Agnes feel more pliant from the outset. The leather’s softness and slight shine give the folds a natural ease, while the broader panels catch light in a way that makes the shape feel richer and more immediately expressive. The grained calfskin leans into the bag’s naturally softened character and scrunched construction.
Nubuck calfskin gives the Agnes a cleaner, more defined shape. Its matte, velvety finish absorbs more light, putting more focus on the folds and construction. While incredibly soft and tactile, nubuck holds the shape more firmly than the grained calfskin. The folds remain central to the design, but the panels and overall shape appear cleaner and more structured.
Both versions are lined in soft lambskin, adding another layer of tactile richness to the bag.
The Row Agnes 12 in nubuck calfskin in Nuez, highlighting the velvety texture and quieter, more refined expression of the silhouette.
Appearance & Style
The leather emphasizes different characteristics of the Agnes, with grained calfskin feeling more expressive and nubuck more polished.
In grained calfskin, the Agnes has more casual ease while still feeling polished. The slight shine gives the surface more movement and makes the scrunched shape feel more expressive. The folds feel especially natural in this finish, reinforcing the Agnes’s softer, slouchier character.
In nubuck calfskin, the Agnes feels richer and more regal. Nubuck can sometimes read rugged, but the velvety texture and curved silhouette make the Agnes feel especially polished. The matte finish gives the folds more definition and makes the overall shape feel cleaner and more refined.
Both versions move easily between casual and dressier looks and work across seasons, particularly in grounded shades like Hippo Grey and Nuez. Hippo Grey reads less as a strict cool grey and more as a softened brown-grey neutral, making it easy with black, navy, camel, cream, and denim. Nuez brings a warmer light-to-medium brown that works just as naturally with tailoring as it does with knitwear, denim, and softer neutrals.
The difference comes down to what you want the leather to add to the outfit. Grained gives the Agnes more movement and expression, while nubuck makes the same shape feel cleaner, richer, and more polished.
Durability & Wear
Both leathers are durable, but they ask for different levels of attention.
Grained calfskin is the easier option for regular use. The texture helps soften the appearance of minor scratches and everyday handling, while the leather’s natural pliability works well with the Agnes’s scrunched construction from the outset. Its slightly shinier surface is a little less forgiving than the matte grained leather used on the Margaux, but it is still the more practical choice overall.
Nubuck calfskin requires more care. The velvety matte finish is a big part of what makes it feel so special, but that surface is also more sensitive to friction, handling, moisture, and marking. The leather itself feels substantial; it is the finish that makes nubuck the more delicate option day to day.
Grained is easier to wear often, while nubuck asks for more attention in exchange for its richer, velvety finish.
Maintenance
Both finishes use high-quality leather and are designed for regular use, but they differ in upkeep.
Grained calfskin is relatively low-maintenance. Occasional conditioning and proper storage are usually enough. Its shinier surface requires some awareness around scratching and surface contact. It is also the easier choice in wetter climates, where the finish is less sensitive to occasional moisture exposure.
Nubuck calfskin needs a little more attention. Its matte, velvety surface is more sensitive to friction, moisture, and general handling, and marks can show more readily over time. If needed, the surface can be gently wiped with a soft, damp cloth and dried immediately. Direct heat, solvents, and liquids containing alcohol should be avoided.
For both versions, proper storage helps preserve the shape. When not in use, lightly stuffing the interior with tissue or a soft insert helps the bag hold its form, while storing it in the provided dust bag protects the leather from dust and prolonged light exposure while still allowing it to breathe.
A closer look at the Row Agnes 12 in grained vs nubuck calfskin, highlighting the side profile, top view of the zipper, and lambskin-lined interior.
Longevity & Relevance
The two leathers give the Agnes very different reasons to stay in regular rotation.
Grained calfskin has strong everyday appeal with its durability and expressive finish. The slight sheen catches the light and emphasizes the folds, while the soft leather gives the Agnes more movement and a squishier shape.
Nubuck calfskin adds a different kind of richness. It brings a refined, velvety texture and a softer kind of luxury that feels noticeably different from more familiar leather finishes, helping outfits feel less repetitive.
Grained keeps the Agnes expressive and easy to use; nubuck adds variety to a leather collection by bringing in a finish that feels less expected.
The Row Agnes 12 in grained and nubuck calfskin, comparing how leather choice changes the silhouette, structure, and overall expression of the bag.
Choose Grained Calfskin if:
You want a more expressive finish
You prefer a shinier, more visibly grained surface
You like a leather that feels squishy and pliant from the outset
You want a lower-maintenance, more practical option for frequent use
Choose Nubuck Calfskin if:
You want a richer, more polished feel
You prefer a matte finish with a soft, velvety hand
You want more structure while still preserving the folds
You are comfortable with a little more care and surface sensitivity
Final Take
Variety in a handbag collection does not always need to come from another shape.
The Agnes already has a strong personality. The leather gives that expression another layer.
Changing the leather can give the same silhouette a different role, feel, and reason to reach for it in a collection.
If the Agnes shape is what draws you in, the leather is where you can decide what you want more of — ease and expression, or richness and distinction.
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